The PJ Special Surfed By Heath

The PJ Special Surfed By Heath from Harry Triglone on Vimeo.

Heath Joske, One session riding a Valla 5'8 single fin.
Filmed and Edited by Harry Triglone
Music: The Brian Jonestown Massacre - Ballad of Jim Jones

"My brother, Sage made me this 5'8" x 20" x 2 3/8" round nose, round tail single fin about a month ago. It's modelled on a couple of smaller double ender looking single fins Dad shaped at the end of the 1970's. Boards were continually getting shorter, in the search for the perfect length, long enough for plenty of drive, yet short enough to surf tighter and deeper in the pocket of the wave.
I had been watching Morning of the Earth a fair bit in the weeks prior to getting my singley and was especially inspired with Nat's flying highlines and Terry Fitz's epic mop. My first surf was so much fun. It felt so refreshing to draw some different lines, especially trying out a few soul arches flying along the top of 2 footers. I've been riding this little board for about 75% of my surfs and it is always so much fun. I'm surfing by myself most of the time and am enjoying not worrying about ripping waves to shreds, it's all about going fast and drawing longer, different lines."
Heath Joske

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